SECTION 4. STUDY SITES.

By Jens Otto Svendsen and Jon Fjeldså.

4.1. Introduction.

In this section, we give brief notes on some general characteristics of the forest and its surroundings at the study sites. Standardised notes were usually not taken, and the notes below are therefore of a miscellaneous character. Our efforts at the localities during the survey are listed in Table 2.1. Notes are given on map errors (1:50.000 maps) in Appendix 4.1, on the existence of local paths inside the forest in Appendix 4.2, and on the exact geographical position of our field stations in Appendix 4.3. On most localities local fields extend right up to the lower forest edge.

4.2. Description of main localities.

Kimhandu area. Location: Southeastern slopes of the Uluguru South Forest Reserve, see Figure 1.4. Lower forest edge: Forest extends down to 1450 m along the Msuluzi River (near our Kimhandu-1 camp, see photograph in the photograph section) and down to 1500 m in the Kitandulu area (near our Kimhandu-6 camp) but in many other areas the forest edge is situated higher up, generally around 1700 m. Upper forest edge: There is a continuous cover of forest all the way up to the highest point (2634 m). Some characteristics of the forest: Apart from the lowest part near the edge the montane forest is relatively undisturbed here with still quite many Camphor trees. Tree height up to 35 m. The terrain is very steep and rugged at Kimhandu and this, in combination with a dense understorey, made it very difficulty to move around in this area. Dracaenas were abundant near our Kimhandu-2 (1710 m) station. Natural forest glades surrounded by tall trees and with the ground covered with tall herbaceous or scrubby vegetation were especially numerous in the Kimhandu-3 (1940 m) area. Following the path from Ukwama village up to the Kimhandu Hill (Nongwe) area the first bamboo is met at 2250 m. The density of bamboo stems increase with altitude and there are dense stands of bamboos in the elfin forest at 2500 m (near our Kimhandu-5 camp). Mosses and lichens hanging down from the trees, a tree canopy height of only around 10-15 meters with emergents up to 25 m and an impenetrably dense forest interior furthermore characterize the elfin forest. Seen from outside the forest, the canopy of the elfin forest is characterized by very dense, “stunted”, small-leaved crowns among bamboos. See photograph in photograph section. Some characteristics of the surrounding area: Main crops are maize and beans (but there is a big [weekly?] vegetable market in Kasanga). Especially the maize is often planted in large monocultures on very steep slopes without any caution taken to prevent soil erosion. Only in a few places and not on the steepest slopes did we see belts of tough grasses but these were apparently planted only to protect paths. Around many houses, there are some banana plants and occasionally a few fruit trees; also, the shambas have stands of bananas. Another crop commonly seen is cassava. In some areas, coffee is planted right up to the lower forest edge, e.g. above Kumba and Wembela villages.

Lanzi area. Location: Eastern slopes of the Uluguru South Forest Reserve, see Figure 1.4. Lower forest edge: The lower forest edge was at 1670 m below our Lanzi-1 camp. A walk towards the north along the forest edge indicated that forest extends down to c. 1550 m near a small stream with the local name Mdogo. Upper forest edge: The forest extends up to the Lukwangule Plateau at c. 2500 m. Some characteristics of the forest: The forest seems a bit drier than in the Kimhandu area. Comparing to the parts of the Kimhandu area we visited the human impact is more visible in the lower part of the forest (Camphor trees were, however, common here). Quite many light gaps in the lower part. Around 1900-2000 m (below our 2000 m camp) the forest was quite mixed with beautiful forest alternating with many big forest glades with bracken or herbaceous growth. Between the camp at 2000 m and the 2110 m station the forest changed into more dry and low forest, and around the Lanzi-3 (2110 m) station the forest was more open (with many big light gaps) and less wet than around the Kimhandu-4 (2145 m) station. Small and big bamboo thickets occur locally in the area. Upstreams along the Mgeta River, bamboo thickets were abundant up to at least 2200 m. The upper part of the forest is elfin forest. Some characteristics of the surrounding area: Recently an area of c. 1 ha had been cleared for cultivation at the lower forest edge (see photograph in the photograph section).

Tegetero area. Location: Eastern slopes of the Uluguru North Forest Reserve, see Figure 1.5. Lower forest edge: Near Tegetero Mission the forest extends down to 1050-1100 m. Where we entered the forest near Tegetero the lower forest edge is at 1130 m. Upper forest edge: At c. 2270 m (Mt. Nziwane). The highest altitude visited on this survey was 1950 m but forest/shrub continues to the highest tops. Some characteristics of the forest: The area west of Tegetero holds a big and plateau-like forest at 1200-1500 m, intersected by several big streams. There are numerous ridges and valleys on the slope but the slope falls very gently and flat in this area, and the terrain was generally easier to move around in here than at Kimhandu and Lanzi. The forest in the flat area is of high quality with often 35-40 m tall trees but there are also many forest glades. Especially in the lowest part (1000-1400 m) the forest is clearly of another type than those visited in the Uluguru South, with lots of thick tall trees (up to 50 m, thick and rank), covered with epiphytes, especially ferns. Doubtless one of the finest pieces of submontane forest in East Africa. Following the path towards Luhungo village, a pass is reached at 1960 m (the highest point visited). West of the pass, the slope is steep, the forest landscape dropping quickly towards the surrounding flat, cultivated lowland west of the mountains. Some characteristics of the surrounding country: Maize fields continued all the way up to the boundary but did not cross it

4.3. Description of localities visited briefly.

Tchenzema area. Location: Western slopes of the Uluguru South Forest Reserve, Figure 1.4. Lower forest edge: At 1950-2050 m, sharp. Upper forest edge: At c. 2500 m (Lukwangule Plateau). Some characteristics of the forest: Inside the forest strong disturbance. Much cutting and no big trees. Mostly just dense shrubbery, smooth (young) trunks with little moss. Lowest Ocotea tree at 2250 m, and generally fairly undisturbed forest only above 2350 m, in very steep parts below the plateau (where the forest is low anyway). Very few trees with >75 cm diameter, and most trunks 10-40 cm. In this zone there are also large open patches with thick layer of herbs (Begonia, Impatiens, Rubus, Stellaria, Eupatorium). Elfin forest at the highest altitudes. Some characteristics of the surrounding area: The entire area is densely populated and intensively cultivated, producing cash crops for the markets in Morogoro and Dar es Salaam. In the main cabbage-growing zone southwards from Nyandira all the way to Nzovu Hill there are numerous small thickets and forest patches, but all of this is planted (wattle, mimosas, Eucalyptus). Almost the entire subtropical zone is cultivated (short-term fallow). Main cash crops of the area are cabbage and also other vegetables (peas, beans, lettuce, potatoes, carrots, leek, beets, garlic). In some areas there are many peach and cherry trees (around 1500 m). The staple crop is maize. Some yams fields, but hardly any cassava. A simple terracing system (lazybeds) is used in most of the area, but the "terraces" erode away during the rainy season and therefore do not prevent that topsoil is washed away. The lower hills are already strongly degraded (almost sand), and good topsoil remains only above 1700 m. Watering channels have been established along most hillsides. Horizontal strips of grass (occasional supported with rows of bushes) are planted in many areas. Occasional Eucalyptus trees are 30 m tall. Also some Cupressus and Grevillea. The foothill (at 1000 m) is a tomato-growing zone, but only small parts are cultivated.

Kimboza Forest Reserve. Location: In the eastern foothills, see Figure 1.3. In crystalline marble (or dolomite?) area. Some characteristics of the forest (see also Appendix 3.2): The forest is at c. 300-400 m altitude. Rather dry, semideciduous. Dry forest floor, except in the well areas, where clear water comes up in several places in the higher parts and flows down in a fairly broad front towards the Ruvu River; although this area is on high ground it has several hectares of Pandanus swamp forest. We were told that in the rainy season much of the forest is flooded (lots of Lymnaea snails and shrimps in the water); even on high ground water covers the surface, probably because of water from the mountains coming out under high pressure all over the karst area. Much of the forest is plantation, esp. Tectonia; some large Ficus. Non-plantation: Mostly only c. 10 m tall, resembling coastal thickets; difficult to get through.

Bunduki I and III Forest Reserves. Location: Small forest patches near gap between Uluguru South and North Forest Reserves, see Figure 1.3 and 1.4. Lower forest edge: At 1220 m. Upper forest edge: At 1540 m. Some characteristics of the forest (see also Appendix 3.1): Lower part Pinus, large Eucalyptus, some Cupressus in a 50 m wide zone, and much Grevillea. A large area (110 ha) inside the forest reserve had recently been clearfelled illegally. Only in a few small areas in the forest are there a mixture of native trees and some rich associated shrubbery. Some characteristics of the surrounding country: In general there is little wood outside the forest. Very little burning in this area. The valley bottoms are intensively cultivated with fields of cabbage (in particular), beans, and cassava. At 1000 m, arid Themeda-covered rolling hills, some sandy fields with lazybed cultivation. Around 1200 m close to 100% of the land is cultivated. Very scattered trees (Erythrinia, Proteus, Acacia). The Bunduki village is a mosaic of Eucalyptus patches and some mango and bananas. Much Dracaena usambarense. Small banana plantations are seen near the houses. Near the village there is much Eucalyptus.

Morningside. Location: Western slope of the Uluguru North Forest Reserve, see Figure 1.5. Lower forest edge: At c. 1500 m. Sharp forest border at 1500 m where access was prohibited. Ornithological observations are from a rather brief survey outside the forest. Some clearance inside the forest. Some characteristics of the surrounding country: Below the border steep slopes, cultivated (lazybeds at 5-10 m intervals) and fallow (lush herbaceous slopes), several Dracaena, and near Morningside Rest House big exotic trees.

Kigurunyembe. Location: Submontane forest strip at the western slope of the Uluguru North Forest Reserve, see Figure 1.5. Lower forest edge: At c. 600 m. Upper forest edge: This forest strip is continuous with the large forest tracts above. Highest altitude visited was 850 m. Some characteristics of the forest: At the northeast “corner” of the Ulugurus, north of the Tegetero-Bagilo-Kinole area, are some outlaying ridges with forest or remnant patches with tall trees along the top ridges at c. 1000 m, and some slopes with tall herbaceous vegetation and dense thickets even below this level, giving some habitat vestiges for birds of evergreen habitat in the lower submontane zone. One of these strips is above Kigurunyembe at the northern end of the Ulugurus. It is a narrow strip (100-400 m wide) of humid forest, which descends down through the zone of miombo woodland and very steep grassy and rocky slopes along a deep ravine all the way from the montane zone to 650 m altitude right above the Teacher’s College at Kigurunyembe. The forest strip visited at Kigurunyembe has a high diversity of trees, scrubs and herbs, but is highly disturbed, as most tall trees have been extracted, leaving most parts as a dense 10-15 m tall thicket vegetation draped by vines. There is a stream inside the forest. Some characteristics of the surrounding area: Near Teacher’s College at 600 m there is a park area with many trees, especially mango, cashew nut and jacaranda together with palms.

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